Biotechnology in cosmetics: Chitosan Cosmetics

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A lab scene with test tubes and a glass vial, representing biotechnology's role in enhancing quality in beauty products

17 Nov 2025

Enabling Quality for Biotech Beauty Products – Part 3

Among biotechnology-driven cosmetic ingredients, chitosan is emerging as a versatile natural polymer. Derived from chitin, the structural component in crustacean shells, or more sustainably from fungal cell walls, chitosan combines biocompatibility, biodegradability, and multifunctionality. It is a linear polysaccharide consisting of glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine. Its properties make it particularly attractive for skincare, wound care, and haircare formulations.

Functional Benefits

Chitosan's film-forming and conditioning properties make it suitable for haircare products like shampoos and conditioners, where it improves manageability and shine. In skincare, it supports hydration and barrier protection, while in dermal fillers it serves as a biodegradable material with high biocompatibility.

Clinical research has highlighted the distinct benefits of chitosan, including its ability to retain moisture and enhance hydration. It contributes to improved skin elasticity and forms a protective biofilm, which helps minimize water loss and shields the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, chitosan has applications in wound healing and regeneration. Additionally, its cationic nature also supports antimicrobial activity, which is beneficial in both cosmetic and dermatological applications.

Biotechnology Production and Analytical Testing

Chitosan derived from a fungal fermentation process offers a scalable, non-animal sourced ingredient where quality can be highly controlled to produce material acceptable for consumer healthcare, medical, drug delivery and other life science applications. Analytical testing is of course the cornerstone of quality assurance and relevant test programs require specialised analysis including:

Capillary electrophoresis (CE) for rapid and accurate quantification even if mixed with other ingredients
Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS) can be used to detect heavy metals such as lead, chromium, and arsenic, ensuring safety compliance
LC-MS/MS for identifying cosmetic allergens and verifying accurate labeling.

Chitosan exemplifies how biotechnology can transform natural polymers into high-performance, safe, and sustainable cosmetic ingredients. With robust analytical testing ensuring quality and safety, chitosan offers the cosmetic and medical industry an innovative, high-quality material that enhances both product performance and consumer confidence.

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Nicholas Hazell

Business Development Manager

Nicholas is Head of Sales and Business Development at Intertek LaCoMeD, where he supports the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, and medical device industries in advancing innovation and ensuring the development of safe, effective products. Drawing on extensive experience across laboratory services and regulatory environments, he works closely with clients to help them navigate R&D, and product validation with rigor and efficiency.